When you think pizza, chances are, you think mozzarella.   It’s the default pizza cheese, and with good reason.  It melts well, has a mild flavor that goes with almost any pizza toppings, and it’s readily available and affordable.

But before you reach for that bag of shredded cheese in your grocer’s refrigerator, remember that there’s more than one kind of mozzarella.  And your pizza will be very different depending on which one you choose.

High-moisture — or fresh — mozzarella is packed in liquid and has a short shelf life.  It can be made from cow’s milk or buffalo milk.  It’s more expensive than low-moisture cheese, but as a rule, you’ll use less of it than the shredded kind.  Fresh mozzarella has a creamy texture and sweet, milky flavor that many purists prefer.

If you’re topping your pizza with high-moisture mozzarella, you’ll want to squeeze out the excess liquid and slice it into medallions.  Otherwise your crust will be soggy.  And you don’t need to cover the entire surface of the pie.  As the cheese melts, it will spread a little.

Low-moisture mozzarella is easier to work with and it’s often available made with part skim milk.  Whole-milk mozzarella melts a little better.  But part skim has less fat, and consequently, fewer calories.  Smoked mozzarella is another option that’s especially good with chicken and caramelized onions.

Because mozzarella, especially the low-moisture variety, is so mild, you should use a hard cheese to add a little punch.  Freshly grated parmesan is a great addition.  For the best flavor, buy Parmigiano-Reggiano.  It’s made from grass-fed cow’s milk and aged for a year.

Romano, which can be made from either sheep or goat’s milk, is salty and sharp.  And Grana Padano, which comes from outside Milan, is another flavor booster.  A little of any of these goes a long way.

But why not change things up and use something other than mozzarella?  A Greek pizza with olives, onions, tomatoes, and feta cheese makes a wonderful summer supper.   For something really special, top it with tzatziki sauce after it’s baked.  Feta is also great with shrimp and tomatoes.  And tangy goat cheese is terrific with arugula and sausage.  Just spray the greens with a little oil before baking.

Combine Fontina with wild mushrooms, and bacon or pancetta.   Or try Gruyere with pancetta and ripe pear slices.  Gorgonzola is also excellent with pears.

Creamy, smoked gouda is perfect for a Mexican pizza with chicken and enchilada sauce.   Or a barbecued chicken pizza with barbecue sauce, red onions, and cilantro.  Cheddar and Cheddar blends are also go well with Mexican toppings or ground beef.

For a lasagna fix without the fuss, top your pizza with a rich meat sauce, mozzarella, and ricotta cheese.

Next time you make a pizza, look in your grocer’s cheese section for inspiration.