If you’ve been to gourmet pizza restaurants like Pizzeria Mozza in Los Angeles or Co. in New York, you’ve probably seen the term “salumi.” But since the word has come into fashion only recently, you may not know exactly what it means.

Salumi is Italian (it’s the plural form of salume), but it’s not a misspelling of salami, although salami is a form of salumi. Confused yet?

Salumi refers to Italian-style cured meats in the same way that “charcuterie,” refers to the French equivalent. And what’s not to like about that?

Most salumi is made from pork. A notable exception is bresaola, which is made from beef. Salumi is usually cured with salt, which kills bacteria, and dehydrates the meat. As the meat is cured, it become firm and the flavor intensifies.

Authentic Italian salumi

Salumi can be smoked (like speck), or unsmoked (like pancetta). Encased (like salami), or not (like lomo). And cooked (like Italian sausage) or eaten raw (like Prosciutto Crudo). It’s often thinly sliced as served as part of an antipasto.

Because it’s cured, most salumi lasts a long time if stored properly. But once it’s sliced, it should be eaten quickly. Otherwise, it dries out. Salami, which is made with ground pork and a variety of seasonings, lasts a little longer because of the added fat — usually from 20 – 25%.

Many Italian pizzas feature some kind of salumi. The most popular are pepperoni and Italian sausage. But many other Italian meats make delicious pizzas too. Coppa, capicola, and sopressata are all great meat pizza toppings.

Salumi from Molinari in San Francisco

Because of the cost of meeting U.S. Food and Drug Administration standards, few Italian salumi makers can afford to import their products into the United States. Which is too bad, because they’re really wonderful. What sets them apart is the quality of the pork, which in most cases comes from pigs that were naturally raised on a farm.

Outside Italy, most Italian butchers sell some salumi. And prosciutto and pancetta are available in most groceries. There are several American producers who are making salumi the way they do in Italy. The best known is Salumi Artisan Cured Meats in Seattle, which is owned by Mario Batali’s father, Armandino. You can order their products at www.salumicuredmeats.com

The next time you’re craving a real Italian pizza, try using some of these delicious salumi cured meats as pizza toppings.

Read more about Italian pizza meats here.

Authentic Italian salumi Image Flickr: rfarmer
Salumi from Molinari in San Francisco Image Flickr: biskuit

No comments »

Nothing makes a pizza more Italian than authentic Italian meats. Since tomatoes and mozzarella are a given, it’s meat pizza toppings like pancetta and proscuitto that can really boost the flavor of an Italian-style pizza.

Not long ago, it wasn’t that easy to find these products. But these days, many grocery stores like Fresh and Easy and Trader Joe’s carry them. So you can make a delicious Italian pizza right at home.

Pancetta, which is often referred to as Italian bacon, is pork belly that has been spiced, salt-cured, and dried for several months. But unlike American bacon, it’s not smoked. In Italy, it’s often rolled and then thinly sliced. In the United States and Britain, it’s often sold diced.

Because pancetta is salty, it’s especially delicious when combined with sweet pizza toppings. Try is with ripe pear or butternut squash.

Prosciutto is uncooked Italian ham. It’s also cured with salt and aged. Some prosciutto has the Protected Designation of Origin (PDO) which dictates how it is produced and what ingredients can be used.

The most famous is Prosciutto di Parma. The pigs here are fed whey left over from making Parmigiano-Regianno cheese, which gives the prosciutto a slightly nutty flavor. If you travel around Italy, you’ll notice that each region’s prosciutto has a distinctive taste.

Usually, a pork leg is covered with sea salt and left to cure for a couple of months in a cool place. After that, it’s washed and left to dry. Once it’s dry, it’s hung for up to two years in a well-ventilated place.

Prosciutto pizza

In Italy, it’s called prosciutto crudo or “raw ham” because it’s not cooked. It’s often eaten as an appetizer with melon, breadsticks, asparagus, or fresh mozzarella. Or used in pasta dishes with peas and a cream sauce. Saltimbocca, which is veal topped with prosciutto, sage, and cheese, is one of Rome’s best loved dishes.

Prosciutto is one of the pizza toppings on a Pizza Capricciosa, which also has mushrooms, artichokes, and olives. It’s also excellent with nutty cheeses like Fontina and Gruyere.

Less well known outside Italy, guanciale is unsmoked Italian bacon made from pork jowls or cheeks. To make it, the pork is rinsed in wine, seasoned and left to marinate for over a month. Like prosciutto, it’s left to dry, but unlike prosciutto, it’s meant to be cooked.

Prosciutto

There aren’t many places outside of Rome that sell guanciale, but if you have a good Italian butcher, you can ask. You can also order it online. If you have guanciale, render it in a pan before using it as a pizza topping, and the save the drippings and make something fabulous with them. It’s extremely high in fat, but since even a small amount adds a tremendous amount of flavor, it won’t bust your diet completely.

You can also make your own if have access to pork jowls and are willing to wait three weeks.

Its rich, pork flavor is the cornerstone of dishes like Spaghetti alla Carbonara and Bucatini all’Amatricana, though pancetta is often substituted.

Read more about Italian pizzas here.
And find more pizza meats here.

Pancetta Image Flickr: tsuacctnt
Proscuitto Pizza Image Flickr: stu spivak
Proscuitto Image Flickr: mandydale

1 Comment »

Serious pizza fans know that the mother of all pizzas is served in Naples. It may not have been invented here, but it certainly was perfected here. And there’s little argument that the best pizza in Naples comes from Da Michele. The real contest is for second place.

Since Da Michele only makes two kinds of pizzas — marinara and margherita — ordering is a snap. The family has been making pizza since 1870, and some of the tables seem to date from then. There’s almost always a line, which has only gotten worse since the publication of Eat, Pray, Love. But most of those who are queued up know their pizza will be worth the wait. Da Michele also serves a baked calzone called a ripiena. They’re closed on Sundays, so plan accordingly.

Di Matteo Pizza Margherita

With a more ambitious menu than most of the pizza restaurants in Naples, Ciro a Mergellina is a great choice when someone wants pizza and someone else doesn’t. It’s located right on the waterfront, and it has the freshest fish in Naples. Have it grilled or deep fried, or served with pasta. Their spaghetti alla vongole is excellent. And their pizzas are really good too. Top off your dinner with their delicious home-made gelato.

Also near the waterfront, Da Ettore is on Santa Lucia Boulevard facing Castel dell’Ovo. The service here is better than at most Naples pizzerias. In fact, the waiters are part of the entertainment. In addition to fantastic pizzas, Da Ettore also serves wonderful calzones, a frito misto with veggies, potato croquettes, and rice balls, fried zucchini blossoms, and fresh seafood.

Not far from the Archaeological Museum, Lombardi a Santa Chiara opened around the turn of the century and today, it’s still owned by the same family. You can dine upstairs or downstairs at the bar. There are plenty of pasta selections to choose from and the vegetable antipasto is very good. But pizza is the real reason to come. You’ll find some interesting pizza toppings here including Lardo (cured pig fat) and smoked provola cheese.

One of the oldest pizza restaurants in Naples, Pizzaria Brandi opened in 1780, and it was here that the Pizza Margherita was born. Italy’s first queen, Margherita di Savoia, tried the pie in 1889 and it was named in her honor. It’s one of the most conveniently located pizzerias, so you can have lunch here and then continue your sightseeing. The décor is charming with wood beams and framed photographs on the walls. And there’s some seating outside. For those craving more than tomatoes and cheese, there’s seafood pizza or rocket and bresaola. If your arteries can handle it, try all Toto, a deep-fried pizza.

Right across the street from Da Michele, Trianon has been serving terrific pizza for years. Recently, reviews have been mixed, so check it our before committing. If there’s no line and no locals, head for Da Michele. If Trianon is packed too, it’s probably back up to par. With 29 different pies on the menu, Trianon offers more variety than other Naples pizza restaurants. And they offer unusual pizza toppings like friarielli — a cousin of broccoli.

In business since 1936, Di Matteo is best known for it’s pizza fritta — deep-fried dough filled with ham, ricotta, mozzarella, provola, and a little pork fat. When President Clinton came to Naples for the G7 summit in 1994, this is where he ate. It’s located on a lovely street in the old part of town. Order some arancini (fried rice balls) or potato croquettes to munch on while you wait for your pizza.

See our list of the best pizza restaurants in Rome here.

1) Da Michele
2) Pizzeria Trianon
3) Ciro a Mergellina
4) Da Ettore
5) Lombardi a Santa Chiara
6) Pizzaria Brandi
7) Di Matteo

View Pizza restaurants in Naples, Italy in a larger map

Di Matteo Pizza Margherita Image Flickr: dawvon

No comments »